Alison Roman’s First Bloom grocery store is an ode to the pantry

BLOOMVILLE, New York — There aren’t many clues that you’re in Alison Roman’s corner store, but if you’re one of the more than 343,000 subscribers to her newsletter, the high-low selection feels unmistakably hers.

Behind the burnt orange doorway at First Bloom, there are jars of preserved lemons, a kaleidoscope of tinned fish and bags of Rancho Gordo beans waiting to be made into something “brothy.” The milk is local. The Haribo gummies are not.