How the Louvre’s Stolen Jewels Turned Up at Paris Couture Week, Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Roseberry has arguably become the most recognizable couture designer for the Millennial and Zoomer generations. His designs, whether they’re on the runway or on celebrities like Doja Cat or Kylie Jenner, often go viral. (Think of the fascination and controversy, in equal parts, around the animalistic dresses he showed in January of 2022.) An American in Paris, he’s helped re-popularize couture for the fanatics that consume it online as entertainment—plus, he’s conquered a host of outlandishly lavish couture clients who wear his gold bejeweled designs like a badge of honor or a presentation card to the most exclusive of clubs.
This level of recognition is also why he has, with his most recent collections, turned slightly inwards, designing still with opulence but less extravagantly so. But not this time.
“It feels like the moment to do something extremely turbo-charged,” Roseberry says, walking through a board displaying images of his collection. “The last few seasons have been disciplined, toned down, and very controlled,” he explains, “and this time I wanted to peacock a little bit, and just have fun with it.”
Roseberry had an instict to peacock this season.
Photo: Ellen Fedors
The instinct to peacock, he says, came from the personal side, from himself. “The more noise there is in this industry, and with this season of debuts and everything there’s been a lot,” he says, referring to the countless designers who have arrived at brands to revamp them over the past year, “I feel more permission to be myself than ever before.”
Not too long ago, Roseberry was the new kid on the block. Now, buzzy designers including Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel will show their first-ever couture collections. “Someone said to me, ‘how does it feel to be the old guard?’” he laughs. “I was like what?” Roseberry is not the old guard in any way, but he is a tried and true talent in the space. And, in a way, he is both setting the tone and leading the pack for the week, given that he has the honor of going first. He seems unfazed by the pressure. “I feel like every season the goal is always to surprise, so even if we’ve been doing it for some time now, it should feel new and revelatory,” he says. “Noise cancelling headphones are a creative director’s best tool,” he adds, both literally and metaphorically. (Roseberry is known for his love of pop music—in his current rotation find Tate McRae’s “Sports Car” and Charli xcx’s new stuff.)
He’s allowed himself to go full force, that is, with the unabashed conviction with which he started at Schiaparelli nearly seven years ago. This collection is tightly edited and delightful at every turn—it encompasses the kind of confidence that makes Roseberry’s couture an unmissable spectacle.
