A frosty staircase in the middle of a snowy forest was the theatrical entrance of the Dsquared2 sports-inspired fall runway. It was a clear nod to the Winter Olympics that are about to happen here in Milan and in Cortina in just a few weeks, but also an homage to the smash hit Heated Rivalry series, one of whose protagonists, Hudson Williams, made his runway debut opening the show. Dean and Dan Caten have always been strongly influenced by winter sports and, together with their Canadian heritage, these themes guided this collection.
Exaggerated volumes played a central role with incredibly oversized puffer jackets proposed in color-blocked versions or covered in bedazzling crystals. A shiny effect was also obtained through transparent sequins used for denim separates which almost looked iced. Vintage ski aesthetics, especially from the ’70s, were reinterpreted through intarsia jumpers and zipped cardigans with snowboarders, skiers, and gold medals inlaid on them. With maxi fur coats and shearlings they explored après-ski vibes in a glamorous way, while padded nylon overpants and hybrid squared-toe ski boots let them introduce their signature cowboy references.
For the womenswear the Caten brothers also touched on technical and sports-inspired themes, but through a more couture-like approach. Oversized duvet and bomber jackets featured maxi bows and fur collars; and corsets and even minidresses were constructed with disassembled jacket parts. At the finale, ski suits reinterpreted in latex had a futuristic feel that was emphasized by ski boots reworked into a sculptural heel-less cyberpunk style.
