With the lingerie-like slip, though, Madonna may also be referencing her own fashion history as a renegade who often wore underwear (much of it designed by Jean Paul Gaultier) as outerwear. (As any good Madonna-ologist will recall, she spent much of the ’80s and ’90s prompting gasps and pearl clutching with her conical bras and exposed gartered stockings – how times have changed!)
And while Saint Laurent is synonymous with French style, her make-up was an Italian job (a nod to the Material Girl’s heritage), courtesy of celebrity make-up artist Marcelo Gutierrez working with the Italian brand KIKO Milano. According to Guitierrez, he started with the eye, using a High Pigment Eyeshadow (20) to neutralise the lid and add a soft veil of shimmer – “Nothing overly sparkly, just a subtle luminosity,” he said – before adding High Pigment Eyeshadow (37) to highlight the inner corners and brow bone, for a lifting, sculptural effect.
Next, he layered in tones, using High Pigment Eyeshadow (36) and (57), to help build layers that felt defined yet natural (ie, not too heavy), before adding yet another layer of eyeshadow – in a muted mauve-lilac shade – to bring out some warmth. And finally, liner was added and then softly set with High Pigment Eyeshadow (54) and (57) to diffuse the edge, for a gently smoked effect.
Her long raven mane, meanwhile, was a highlight of the evening. “The look was rooted in an obscure feminist artist,” said Merria Dearman, who styled her hair. “It was surreal, textural, and emotionally driven rather than literal. From the beginning, it was never about perfection. It was about feeling.”
The inspiration came from a wig that Madonna had spotted on set, and a semi-custom version was crafted from there. “The direction was instinctive but precise,” says Dearman. “Extremely long, full, and rich in texture. A deep, natural brown, not black, with ends that softened and diffused like hair that has grown untouched for years. Organic. Lived in. Completely authentic.” Much like Madonna herself
