Not to be confused with nearby Kirkby Stephen, the Cumbria town of Kirkby Lonsdale may not be very big (population 2,000), but its position – close to the borders of Yorkshire and Lancashire – offers an advantage. It offers easy access to both the Yorkshire Dales and Lake District National Parks, without the busy-ness of either.
Indeed, it was the location that gave the town its early importance as a strategic crossing point on the River Lune, along the trading route between what was then Westmorland and Yorkshire.
Kirkby Lonsdale was granted a market charter in 1227; the market outgrew its original site next to the church and eventually moved into a splendid Georgian square in 1823, where it still operates weekly on Thursdays. The livestock market closed in the 1990s.
While the town’s trade importance went the same way as its 19th-century cloth-making and tanning industries, it’s still home to a variety of thriving independent shops, businesses, inns and places to eat.
Wandering the streets is a delight – look out for Salt Pie Lane and Jingling Gate as you make your way to the 14th-century Devil’s Bridge. This beautiful, but narrow, three-arched bridge was the river’s crossing point until a new bridge was opened in 1932.
Head the other way from the Market Square to St Mary’s Church, with its Norman west door and pillars. From the corner of the churchyard, a path leads to a view over the Lune as it curves in its gentle valley, a bucolic scene that mesmerised both art critic John Ruskin and artist JMW Turner.
See kirkbylonsdale.co.uk for more.
Pretty Kirkby Lonsdale in Cumbria (Photo: visitlakedistrict.com)
Where to stay
The cottagey-looking, window-box exterior of Plato’s is deceptive. There’s a large cocktail bar plus eight townhouse-smart bedrooms, with deep-hued walls, velvet and tartan armchairs, and local Bath House products in sleek bathrooms. All but one room is dog-friendly, and there’s a tucked-away courtyard for warmer days. Doubles from £88, platoskirkbylonsdale.co.uk
Where to shop
The glut of enthusiastic independents is clustered in and around Main Street. Pick up ethical products and refills at The Zero Pantry, striking men’s shirts at The Black Bicycle, children’s gifts at The Veg Patch, sturdy baskets at Lunesdale ironmongers and body products at Bath House. The Book & Jigsaw Lounge sells what it says on the tin. Old-fashioned sweets can be found at The Sweet Shop while local crafts and artwork are on sale at both Gathered and the Visitor Information Centre.
The Howgill Fells on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park (Photo: JoeDunckley/Getty)
Where to have lunch
Tiny Wild Flower in Main Street, with its chunky tables and raspberry-coloured walls, serves savoury croissants, interesting sandwiches (peppered pastrami, coronation chickpea), all-day breakfasts and cakes. Alternatively, pick up a bacon sandwich (egg, cheese and sausage versions are also available) from the snack van on Devil’s Bridge. Food and hot drinks have been dished up from the same vehicle since 1955.
Where to visit
The Vault, housed in a former bank at the back of the Visitor Information Centre, shows short films in which costumed actors offer entertaining accounts of the town’s history – such as William Wordsworth’s and John Ruskin’s visits.
Eleven miles west, on the edge of the Lake District National Park, the Elizabethan Levens Hall is home to the world’s oldest topiary garden. Wander among box and yew trees clipped in extraordinary shapes – pyramids, arches, birds, walnut whips – and explore herbaceous borders, wildflower meadows and a willow labyrinth.
Where to go for a drink
The Royal Barn (former stables for the Royal Hotel) is a cavernous, rustic space – beams, stone walls, fairy lights and cable-drum tables – that showcases the beers of Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery, based just outside town. On average, 15 types are available at a time, from the blonde best-selling Monumental to Devil’s Bridge, a hoppy IPA. Taster selections are available, plus there’s live music most weekends.
The Sun Inn in Kirkby Lonsdale (Photo: visitlakedistrict.com)
Where to go for dinner
For punchy flavours in a fun atmosphere, Plato’s is a good choice. Try the cheese soufflé starter, followed by curried lamb shank or teriyaki vegetables.
With a striking pillared entrance, the 17th-century Sun Inn may be a pub but it serves unexpectedly refined dishes such as beef tartare with truffle emulsion and pan-fried stone bass with saffron potatoes.
The best autumn walks
Ingleborough in the Yorkshire Dales (Photo: Michael Honor/Getty)
A peaceful five-mile walk leads south through meadows along the River Lune (where herons, egrets and swans might be spotted) then up through fields and woods to the quiet villages of Whittington and High and Low Biggins. Look east for views of Ingleborough, a flat-topped mountain, before looping back.
For something more strenuous, head 11 miles north to Sedbergh, sheltered below the lovely Howgill Fells. These ripples of grassy mounds, riven by little valleys, are much quieter than the Lakeland Fells. From the town centre, go up Settlebeck Gill and on to Brant Fell, then retrace your steps and fork right over Winder before descending to the town. The views to the Pennines, Lakeland fells and Morecambe Bay are stupendous.
Getting there and around
A car is the easiest way to reach the town – six miles from the M6 – and gives most flexibility. There are paid car parks, plus plenty of free parking around Devil’s Bridge, a 10-minute walk from the centre. The nearest train station is Oxenholme, 10 miles away, with services from London, Manchester and Glasgow.
